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Designing The Penultimate Pulk Sled


The Penultimate Pulk Sled is the culmination of 2 seasons of trial and error (mostly error). I am indebted to all the brave souls who tried and erred before me. You can find most of them if you search for "pulk sled" on Google or YouTube.  And if you're tempted to use parallel poles, watch this first.

My first attempt used PVC pipe with metal clips on each end, eye bolts, and a weight belt with bolts sticking out to attach the clips. It slid out of control on side hills, rolled over, twisted the PVC like spaghetti, broke metal pieces, and was a lot of fun! In fact, I used that sled on a 2 day camping trip to the rim of Crater Lake where I snapped the background picture for this blog AND a metal pole clip.

The brainstorm for the Penultimate Pulk Sled was the idea to use 2 pairs of grommets on the sled with a strap to keep the poles held tightly against the grommets. I was amazed at how well it worked, and how easy it was to build.

I was committed to using the grommet idea for the belt too. I discovered that if you make the rope loops on the end of the pole a little shorter than the distance between the 2 grommets on the belt, it holds the poles tightly to the belt, as shown in the video. I threw away several belts with more than 2 grommets in the center position that didn't work. You need to thread both pole rope loops through the same 2 center grommets to get them to stick against the belt. I used smaller rope on the belt end of the poles so 2 loops would go through 1 grommet. After trying 10 or 15 bad ideas, I also added a small cable tie on the rope loops to help thread them through the grommets.
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Building The Penultimate Pulk Sled

Parts

#2 Spur Grommet Die Set Installation Tool ($30.00)
 
#2 Spur Grommets - Nickel - Qty 25 (enough for 2 sleds) $7.25
 
#2 Spur Grommets - Stainless Steel - Qty 6 (optional ) $6.00
 
Shipping is about $10.  I used 4 stainless steel grommets on the sled for a little added strength. Nickel is actually nickel plated brass, which looks nicer and doesn't corrode compared to brass alone. Nickel is better for the belt because it is lighter.
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Stainless steel grommets are a little cheaper at Aerostore ($0.80 instead of $1.00) but you'd pay another shipping cost.
 
2" Seat Belt Webbing - 5 feet per belt - $3.00  (get extra!)
 
1" Seat Belt Webbing - about 5 feet - $1.80
 
The seat belt webbing slides through the buckles more smoothly, and is easier to tighten. My second choice is the polyester webbing, which comes in pretty patterns as well. If the 1" Seat Belt Webbing is out of stock, try 1" Polyester Webbing.
 
Double Adjusting Side Release Plastic Buckles You need a 2" ($1.76) and 1" ($1.02) buckle. Get extras too.
 
Speedy Stitcher Sewing Awl - $10.95 - This is optional. I used it to sew the end of the belts over to keep them from coming out of the buckles. It includes a large spool of heavy thread.
 
Blackhawk Belt Pad Small, Medium, or Large.
$17 for Medium, which fits almost everyone.
 
The back of the belt pad sticks nicely to the hips so it doesn't rotate or slip down. The seat belt webbing does slip on the belt pad, but this is easily fixed by frizzing up the back of the webbing with sandpaper. The belt buckle should be just below the belly button so you're pulling with the pelvis. If you have the belt too low and tight, it can compress the femoral arteries and reduce blood circulation to the legs. The clue that this is happening is that it's really hard to pull the sled, but you're not winded.
From REI.com (Also available in the stores)

BlueWater 4mm Utility Cord - 30 ft. $7.50 - Used for the sled end of the poles.

BlueWater 3mm Utility Cord - 50 ft. $9.95 - Used for the belt end of the poles and for lashing the duffel bag to the sled.

REI Classic Duffel XXX $49.50 - I bought this on clearance for $25. It works great, but you may find something cheaper elsewhere, or just use a plastic tarp wrapped around your gear.

Nite Ize Figure 9 Tent Line Kit - Package of 4 $10 - I use these with the 3 mm cord to quickly tie the cargo to the sled.
From Hardware Store
 
#10 Stainless Steel - 1" machine screws - nylon lock nuts - 1" fender washers - Quantity 8 (for runners - plus 1 or 2 extra)


#8 Stainless Steel - 3/4" flathead screws - Quantity 4 (for poles - 
note: 11/64" clearance hole in pipe - 9/64" guide hole in pole)

4 feet 1/2" x 3/4" aluminum angle (1/2"x1/2" is OK too)

1/2" Fiberglass fence posts - 5 feet - quantity 2 (plus extra) - about $3 each. If you can't find them locally, or you want them longer to be sure the sled doesn't hit the back of your skis, try ordering 10 of the 1/2" 6-footers for around $45 (with shipping) from Electric Horse Fence. They come in handy for other things too.

1/2" schedule 80 PVC pipe to glue to ends of poles for rope loops. You only need 2 or 3 feet at about 50 cents a foot. Schedule 80 has a smaller inner diameter that fits the pole more closely, and dark grey UV stabilizers so it lasts longer in the sun.

Devcon Plastic Welder glue, or equivalent (make sure it handles the cold).

3/8" Plain Grommet Kit - about $8 - I sharpen the punch and use it as a drill bit to make holes in the webbing for the spur grommets. You can also practice pounding in plain grommets while waiting for the spur grommets to arrive.



Paris Expedition Sled


REI is the best place to get them if you can't pick them up at a local store.



Also, Aubuchon Hardware in New England may have them in stores.
Emsco Heavy Duty Beast Expedition Sled (1138)

If you can't find the Paris Expedition, it looks like the Emsco Beast sled will work well too. I bought one in stock at Dick's Sporting Goods last year ($40 there now). I haven't modified it yet, but I think I can get 2 grommet on the outside, curved front corners, and 2 more on the forward bottom corners.  I'll also try a single aluminum angle runner along the center of the sled in back, if needed (and it probably will be on steep trails).
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The Beast Sled

This is the strongest position for the (stainless steel) grommets.
First, I was able to place grommets in the front corners of the rim of the sled. I put them as close to the folded over upper edge as possible, and in the center of the rounded corner part where the plastic is strongest.

Next, I put grommets in the front corners of the bottom of the sled, which is also a very strong point. I used stainless steel grommets for maximum strength. You have to pound them in for quite awhile to get the inside rim of the grommet folded over completely. You may have to tilt the tool a little while pounding to do this. Nickel grommets are much easier to install, and probably would work just as well.

Pole rope loop threaded through grommets.

Strap tightens connection. It works!

1/8" cord loop for lashing gear down.

Surgeon's knot on bottom works well.


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